David Baily: Portrait Photographer
I’m embarrassed to say I hadn’t heard of David Bailey when I picked up this book by Jackie Higgins, aptly titled David Bailey, from one of the pay-what-you-want bins outside a going-out-of-business bookstore in a working-class/refugee haven neighborhood of Brooklyn.
Two photos jumped out at me right away – Roman Polanski with Sharon Tate (a loving couple in a tender embrace, despite their reputation for a drug-infused lifestyle and sexual freedom) and Billy Wilder -- the greatest screenwriter ever -- sitting in his kitchen, arms folded, looking straight into the camera with a look of impatience and annoyance, as if telling Bailey to use a different angle or a different lens.
I put five bucks into the bin, slid the book under my arm, and walked off, feeling as happy as a fisherman who just caught a huge salmon. I paused for a moment, went back to the bin, and put in two more dollars. Those two photos alone are worth $7, at least.
David Bailey (yes, he’s still alive) is a towering figure in the world of photography, celebrated not only for his technical mastery and innovative style but also for his profound impact on visual culture. His contributions during the transformative decade of the 1960s were significant. Bailey’s portraits are renowned for their directness and simplicity, and his talent lies in capturing the essence of his subjects through a stark, minimalistic approach that places the focus entirely on the individual.
By using close-ups, direct eye contact, and sharp contrasts, Bailey reveals the character and personality of his subjects in an intimate yet powerful manner. This method diverged sharply from the more traditional, staged portrait photography of his time, introducing a fresh, modern aesthetic.
Just take a look at this photo of Michelangelo Antonioni (2006). The question of “seeing” is part of the composition, writes Jackie Higgins. “Antonioni, with one eye unfocused and the other misted over, seems to see through the piercing green eyes of the cat, an alter ego.” Some say that the cocky photographer in Antonioni’s film Blow-Up (1966) is based on Bailey. The film deals with reality and illusion, and different ways of seeing.
One of Bailey's trademarks is his mastery of lighting, which plays a crucial role in the dramatic impact of his images. His focus on simplicity and directness was a departure from the elaborate setups of traditional photography, emphasizing instead the raw, unfiltered beauty of his subjects.
The 1960s were a period of immense cultural change, and Bailey was there with his trusted Hasselblad and Leica to document this revolution. His approach to photography was marked by a willingness to break away from conventional boundaries. He introduced a raw, spontaneous quality to his work, often experimenting with unconventional angles, movements, and expressions. This gave his photographs a sense of immediacy and authenticity that was both refreshing and groundbreaking.
Bailey was among the first photographers to achieve celebrity status in his own right. Prior to him, photographers were typically behind-the-scenes artists, known only within their professional circles. Bailey’s charisma, his relationships with high-profile figures, and his presence in the media elevated him to a level of fame that was unusual for photographers. This shift not only highlighted his individual talent but also helped to elevate the status of photography as an art form.
Bailey’s personal philosophy towards photography is rooted in curiosity and a desire to connect with his subjects. He often speaks about the importance of being present and truly engaging with the person in front of the camera, resulting in authentic, compelling images.
Memorable Quotes by David Bailey
On simplicity in photography: "It's not the camera that takes a great picture; it's the person behind it."
On capturing the essence of his subjects: "People inspire me. I've got a lot of confidence in humanity. I see beauty in everything."
On his approach to portraiture: "You have to trust your own instincts and be brave enough to follow them."
On the significance of spontaneity: "The best pictures are uninvited. They just happen."
On his creative philosophy: "Creativity is the last legal way to get intoxicated."
Influences on David Bailey
David Bailey was influenced by various people and movements throughout his career. Here are some notable influences:
Henri Cartier-Bresson: The French photographer known for his candid and street photography greatly influenced Bailey. Cartier-Bresson's emphasis on capturing the "decisive moment" inspired Bailey's approach to spontaneity and authenticity in his work.
Richard Avedon: An American fashion and portrait photographer, Avedon's minimalist style and ability to capture the essence of his subjects had a significant impact on Bailey. Avedon's work demonstrated how portrait photography could be both artistic and commercially successful.
Irving Penn: Another American photographer, Penn's meticulous compositions and innovative use of lighting influenced Bailey's own techniques in portraiture and fashion photography.
Cecil Beaton: As a British photographer, Beaton's glamorous portraits and fashion photography in the early to mid-20th century set a precedent that Bailey both admired and sought to break away from, contributing to his drive to innovate and redefine modern photography.
The British Pop Culture Movement: The cultural revolution of the 1960s, including the rise of rock and roll, the fashion scene, and the counterculture movement, provided Bailey with a rich tapestry of inspiration. The energy and spirit of the times deeply influenced his work, pushing him to capture the vibrancy and dynamism of the era.
The London Art Scene: Bailey was part of a vibrant art community in London, interacting with painters, filmmakers, and other creatives who pushed boundaries and encouraged experimentation. This environment fostered his creative growth and reinforced his desire to innovate.
David Bailey's revolutionary approach to photography not only defined an era but continues to inspire generations of photographers today. His ability to capture the raw essence of his subjects, coupled with his innovative techniques, has cemented his place as one of the most influential figures in the history of modern photography.
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’Til next time.
ak
I’ve also been on a David Bailey kick recently. This is great, as is his astonishingly frank autobiography ‘Look Again’ and the junk shop purchase which kicked this off for me, a large format volume called ‘David Bailey on Photography’ or some such, which is absolutely great. Love his work, and he’s a remarkable personality…
Nice piece, Alex. Bailey is one of my all time favourite photographers. He was certainly innovative and pushed the boundaries of what was normal in fashion and portrait photography. One of my favourite quotes of his is, “Everyone will take one great picture. I’ve done better because I’ve taken two.” You got an absolute bargain with that book. You should try to get your hands on “Look Again” which is his autobiography. A fascinating read.