Dreaming of Portugal

Last year, in the middle of December, 2022, Luba and I decided to go to Portugal. We hadn’t planned on going to Europe. A spur of the moment decision.

“Going across the pond during the busiest time of the year?! Christmas time?! Are you insane?!”, yelled my inner critic Freddy. Maybe he was right, but somehow I just felt… Portuguese, even though I’d never been to Portugal, don’t have friends or relatives in Portugal, and, to be honest, didn’t know much about Portugal.  It was just a feeling I couldn’t shake.

“Bullshit,” Freddy yelled again. “Don’t give me that “just-a-feeling” business. Portugal is cheaper than any other European country, save Albania or Moldova, where no one wants to go, unless they’re running away from somerhing!”

True, Portugal was cheaper. But that’s wasn’t my reason. Honestly.
I just felt Por-tu-guese. I don’t know how else to explain it. Luba was a good sport (she always is, but especially in December, because it’s the month of my birthday) and told me to slap Freddy upside the head. Hard.

“We’re going to Portugal” she proclaimed joyfully.

Please Note: Those of you allergic to reading or to my ramblings, feel free to watch the highlights video of our trip at the bottom of this post.

I bought the tickets, put together an itinerary in one day, and off we went, leaving Freddy at home alone (I’ll bring him a bookmark made of cork from Lisbon).

3 days in Lisbon
3 days in Porto
Back to Lisbon, rent a car
drive to Sintra (24km northwest of Libson)
1 day in Sintra
Drive for 3 hours to Algavre (beautiful, scenic, coastal road)
3 days in Lagos, 2 days in Faro
Back to Lisbon / flying home

I knew I would fall in love with Portugal, because a feeling is not just a feeling; it’s something that tells you something about something. I’m not smart enough to understand what, why, or how, but I know enough to trust it.

It took me exactly one year to be able to write about our adventures because I didn’t want to ruin the lingering magic of it.

Okay. Lisbon.

Lisbon, Lisbon, Lisbon had me at hello. It has the charm of a provincial town mixed with the refined culture of a global capital. Having grown up in a small town, I’d always dreamed of escaping to a big city. But now, having lived in big cities for a few decades, I’m dreaming of escaping to a small town – only not to the one I was born in, God forbid.

Back to Lisbon. Pastel-hued neighborhoods, azulejo tiles, yellow trams, a hip arts scene, delicious food. What else would anyone want?

The locals are super-warm and friendly and open, but… we were warned their attitude is changing, alas. The influx of expats from all over the world dropping anchors at every corner is reshaping the dynamic of the city (and the country) by driving up housing and rent prices. If I were a local, I’d be furious.

Still, I'd be lying if I didn’t feel like ripping up our plane tickets and staying in Lisbon for good. I know Luba would have loved it, but I’m just a yellow-bellied, chicken-hearted traveler who aims high but shoots low.

Next: Porto

Two perfectly pleasant hours north by train. The city is like your worn-out leather jacket—it might not be flashy, but God-darn-it, it's got character! Porto is proud of its dermal creases, cracks, and bumps.

People and buildings here wear a mishmash of colors like a badge of honor. Bent Fado notes escape from every nook and cranny. Porto is a bit like that cozy, lived-in feeling you get at home, a place where all your quirks are celebrated.

Oops, I almost forgot. It’s also the home to one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, Livraria Lello (see video below).  To visit it, you have to buy tickets and wait in line in the cold to get in. But it’s worth it, especially if you like bookstores with painted-glass skylights. You won’t leave that place empty-handed.

On day three, Luba roamed the nearly deserted city while I stayed in bed watching Argentina kicking France’s ass on pens to win the World Cup. The hotel’s bartender said he was changing his son’s name from Gil to Lionel. It made sense.

A day later, we were back in Lisbon, rented a tiny Fiat, and headed over to…

Sintra

Castles, palaces, rolling hills. Hey, we’re just visiting!

It was as if we fell through a rabbit hole into a fairy tale composed by a drunk knight. What a patchwork of pastel palaces and enchanting gardens. Forget straight lines; here, it's all about whimsical curves and hidden nooks. Everything smells of mystery and bloody plate armor, as if the stories of dragons and princesses lingered among the centuries-old trees. Time stands still here. Or maybe I just can’t keep up with it.

Enough of that. On to…

Algarve

Down A2 and A22 highways, until we eventually reached the coastal scenery. The road hugs the Atlantic, and the Atlantic hugs you, offering glimpses of sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs. Towns like Albufeira and Portimão dot the route, each with its unique charm. I hadn’t driven a stick shift in while, so it was fun to have a sense of control and a touch of tendinitis in my clutch foot.

Lagos

Lagos, that gem of the Algarve, isn't just about the beaches, though they're pretty awesome. From the iconic Praia Dona Ana with its golden cliffs to the more secluded Praia do Camilo, the coastline is a paradise, especially in late December when it’s empty of sunseekers.

But Lagos is also about the cool roadside joints where you grab a bifana sandwich, hang out on the promenade with the locals and discuss the history of European fishmongery.  

We had planned to stay here for four days. And if we hadn’t eaten some bad sardines at a restaurant run by a 90-year-old grandmother of 12 and taken turns vomitting all night afterward, we would’ve arrived in Faro (only 90 miles to the east) on schedule. But life can be strangely unpredictable, so we got there a day late.

Faro

Faro is often overlooked in favor of more touristy destinations in the Algarve, but it has its historic Old Town, which is surrounded by medieval walls, and the storks atop the tower, as well as the Arco da Vila gate and the cathedral, and other historical landmarks.

There are fewer tourists, so you can experience the Algavre without the crowds. Okay, so it doesn’t have a vibrant nightlife as some other neighboring towns, but who needs a vibrant nightlife, anyway? Those whippersnappers never seem to learn anything.

And that was that. A day later we were…

Back in Lisbon

Another glorious evening in the city before we flew back to NYC.

I’m not prone to hyperbole, folks, so when I say that a spontaneous trip is a key to human happiness, I really mean it. Luba is standing by to confirm it. I’m talking about real trips, of course, not the ones I regularly take in my mind. Also, I reserve the right to change my mind.

Some fun facts about Portugal:

1.     Oldest Nation in Europe: Portugal is one of the oldest countries in Europe, and its borders have remained relatively unchanged since 1139, making it one of the oldest nations in the world.

2.     Lisbon's Historic Trams: Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is famous for its historic yellow trams. Tram 28 takes you on a scenic route through many of the city's historic neighborhoods.

3.     Port Wine: Portugal is renowned for its production of Port wine, a fortified wine from the Douro Valley. The grapes used in making Port wine are grown along the Douro River.

4.     Explorers and Discoveries: Portugal has a rich maritime history, with famous explorers like Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to reach many parts of the world during the Age of Discovery.

5.     Lusophone Nations: Portuguese is the official language of Portugal and is also spoken in several other countries, known as Lusophone nations. These include Brazil, Mozambique, Angola, Cape Verde, and others.

6.     Cork Production: Portugal is the world's largest producer of cork. The cork oak tree is native to the country, and cork is used in a variety of products, including wine stoppers, flooring, and fashion items.

7.     Portuguese Tiles (Azulejos): Portugal is known for its beautiful ceramic tiles called azulejos. These tiles are often used to decorate buildings, walls, and floors, and they come in various intricate patterns and vibrant colors.

8.     Fado Music: Fado is a traditional Portuguese music genre characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often expressing themes of longing, nostalgia, and sadness. It is typically performed with a singer accompanied by the Portuguese guitar.

9.     Cabo da Roca: Cabo da Roca, located near Lisbon, is the westernmost point of continental Europe. It offers stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and is a popular tourist destination.

10. Portuguese Cuisine: Portugal is known for its delicious cuisine. Some popular dishes include bacalhau (salted codfish), pastel de nata (custard tart), and caldo verde (green soup).

As always, thanks for reading and viewing! Your support is much appreciated.

Happy New Year!!!

‘Til next time,

ak